Ermanno Scervino Pre-Fall 2023

Ermanno Scervino wants to return to a clearer division between his pre- and main collections. This one is going to fill the shop shelves, then the main line will be very atelier. “There will be time to think about eveningwear, now it’s all about casual and easily wearable clothes,” said the designer.

But that does not mean there is a lack of workmanship. “I worked on the preciousness of the details, the real sophistication for me today is to create clothes that seem very simple, but are not.” Day suits, for example, have a loose effect, yet the width of the trouser leg is contrasted by the narrow waist of the blazer. Other trousers are inspired by tracksuits, but with seams in the right places to ensure a perfect fit. The down jacket, likewise, is far from classic; it is oversized but still well-shaped.

Scervino has spent a lot of time in St. Moritz and Cortina and he took style inspiration from the mountains. There is a certain idea of the high-altitude lifestyle that is working globally, from the chalets in the Alps to those in Aspen, where the stars were photographed non-stop during the week between Christmas and the new year. His shearling jackets decorated with floral embroidery in raw wool threads look very light, but inside they are lined with cashmere wool. Not so simple at all.

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