Kris Goyri Mexico Spring 2023

When Kris Goyri found out he would be staging his spring collection in an agave field in Oaxaca, he immediately thought of the gualumbo, the flower that grows from the maguey plant. The gualumbo would come to inspire his collection, after he found out its melancholy life story. “The gualumbo is born at the peak of the agave’s life,” Goyri explained after the show, “It is the blossoming of the plant that grows straight to the sky.”

The sun at its zenith and the sweet notes of the Oaxacan singer Rodrigo Pereyra echoed in the agave fields of the Mitla community. Dresses and skirts made of gabardine and linen — two materials that Goyri does not usually work with — offered enough weight to allude to the hardness of the branch that holds the gualumbo flower. The thorns of the maguey were reinterpreted in the buttonholes that appeared throughout the collection, adding to the maximalist proportions that were especially visible in the cape dresses. Meanwhile, skirts and pants were trimmed in shades of beige and green that paid homage to the fields.

In Kris Goyri’s hands, the splendor of the gualumbo echoed in a vibrant color palette of oranges, pinks, and electric blue silks to create an explosion of life on the runway.

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