Labrum London Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear

“It’s about paying homage to my roots, but with a nod to the craftsmanship of London,” said Labrum creative director Foday Dumbuya of the inspiration for fall. The designer was influenced by both his West African and British heritages and effortlessly brought together razor-sharp tailoring and a vibrant palette that uplifted the soul. Plus a live choir providing the soundtrack added an ecclesiastical mood to the spectacle.

The collection applied a fluidity to precision-cut suits and outerwear. It was titled Poetics of Movement because Dumbaya wanted to make a statement about migration and the feelings of displacement as a refugee. “It’s emotional for me, because people don’t always understand when I talk about culture, so I wanted to convey that experience where moving can feel like culture is being stripped away,” he said. “But in this collection, I found the beauty in my experiences from back home, as well as here in London.”

Dumbaya returned to his native city, Freetown of Sierra Leone, to source fabrics from local artisans in delectable shades of canary yellow, vibrant orange, and ocean green. Standout pieces were the coats: One in particular was padded in iridescent black vinyl, while others with oversized lapels featured floral motifs in tangerine applied to gray and black wool. The designer also collaborated with leather goods brand Nosakhari on three new bag shapes: a folio, a crossbody, and an oversized tote.

Despite this only being Dumbuya’s second collection on the official London schedule, it’s clear that he is confidently establishing immediately recognizable signatures. A well-deserved standing ovation at the finale of his show made it clear the designer has our attention.

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