“You don’t really know what’s real or fake here anymore,” said Our Legacy creative director Christopher Nying when talking about how he crafted jeans from past collections into jackets and worked with digitally printed denim to eliminate the water used in creating washes.
The same description could be applied to other aspects of this quietly subversive collection titled Deja Vu.
Transitioning people out of sweatpants and into something that’s still comfortable but more dressed is a preoccupation of many designers today, Nying included. “The first idea of the collection was to create a delicate form of sportswear based on track suits,” he explained, “but now we’re moving into a more delicate world, [using] nylon [and] cotton crochet in sportswear.” Stiff synthetics and heavy jerseys have been replaced by technical knitwear that, stresses Nying, looks fragile but isn’t. It’s used to make a transparent and elastic column which can be worn as a top, skirt, or dress and is a terrific layering item. A silk menswear tank is a reminder of OL’s almost romantic ideal of masculinity, which is also often linked to the swingy 1970s; note the butterfly motifs and high-heeled boots.
Nying and his co-founder Jockum Hallin applied what Hallin described as “a different sensibility” to categories that are traditionally seen as masculine, like sportswear and military gear. Central to this season was the deconstruction of the elements of the classic M51 jacket which were then used to make a wide array of garments, including shorts and a skirt that can be worn buttoned or open. Nying, who spoke of evoking the mood of an aimless walk through an empty city, said the M51 created “an after-war feeling for me.” Post-lockdown life has elements of that sentiment too.
Memory isn’t a mirror or record of the past, it’s an impression of it. Similarly, OL’s lookbook imagery borrows from street style photography, but isn’t. While many of the clothes look like ace vintage finds from the “anti-fashion” grunge era— the brand isn’t called Our Legacy for nothing—they’re new, they’re cool, and they speak to how we are living today.