Filippo Grazioli’s first outing for Missoni menswear revisited the label’s archival fundamentals through the streamlined lens of simplification and modernity. It’s the same approach he adopted for resort, and the collection he presented today at the Missoni showroom looked very much in sync with his vision of womenswear.
“For starters, I wanted to update the graphics, the fiammato, the zig zag, the patchwork,” he explained. He broke them into more nervous, electric renditions, which worked well with his restrained palette—white, black and toned down primary colors. He kept the silhouette décontracté, loose and relaxed, anchored by roomy pleated pants with elasticated waistbands worn under light blazers made from the Raschel fabric, a hybrid knitted material exclusively made by a machine first perfected by the late Ottavio Missoni. As an updated Missoni-esque version of the traditional tailored suit, it looked rather cool.
“People seem to be moving away from streetwear,” said Grazioli. “Even young generations want to look more interesting, a little more formal.” To that end, he just hinted at sportswear tangentially, infusing dynamism and ease into versatile pieces while keeping “a certain sophistication,” as he called it. “My way of approaching Missoni doesn’t have to be loud or pyrotechnic,” he said. “I’m keeping it more discreet and disciplined.”