MSGM Fall 2023 Menswear

“Dreaming is what makes changing the world possible,” said Massimo Giorgetti, who, judging from his professional trajectory, seems able to make at least his dreams become reality. No wonder he dedicated his men’s collection to a fictitious University of Dreamers, inspired by Peter Weir’s 1989 movie Dead Poet Society and staged in the hall of the brutalist building housing the actual faculty of architecture of Milan’s Politecnico University.

The MSGM cast of characters looked to be straight out of an English poetry class by professor John Keating, played by Robin Williams in the film. At the beginning of the show, Italian singer gIANMARIA recited a short excerpt from a Keating lecture, which was about “poetry, beauty, romance and love; these are what we stay alive for.” Giorgetti embraced a romantic notion of youth this season, focussing on the time between boyhood and adulthood. Style wise, it reverberated in the contrast between the mature, sophisticated formality of tailoring and the ironic, sporty, slightly grungy campus look. “But they’re rather bon-ton rebels,” joked Giorgetti.

The clean silhouettes of “normal” suits with cargo trousers and slim coats, rendered in a palette of navy, red, optical white and black, contrasted with fleece jumpers printed with all the autographs of the MSGM team; quarterback hoodies worn with underwear and leggings; and waistcoats with deconstructed argyle motifs. Graphic references to gaming, a mascot printed on a puffa jacket, and tokens embroidered on sweats added a decorative twist.

The robust soundtrack from CCCP, an Italian ’80s punk group from Bologna whose strong, controversial lyrics were influential for the underground culture of that time, was a nice counterpoint to the lighthearted, delicate charm of Giorgetti’s posse of dreamers. “The problem with dreaming is that it’s an activity that never stops,” chimed the ever practical designer. “It self-multiplies and self-regenerates constantly. Once you finally get your dream done, another one is right around the corner, ready to roll.”

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