“Luft” is the Swedish translation of the word “air,” and creative director Christopher Nying riffed on the theme for the Our Legacy spring collection, presented during Milan Fashion Week for the first time through a showroom presentation
Our Legacy is about intelligent construction of garments with a minimalist look. Their pragmatic, technical nature is mitigated by the sophistication of Nordic essentiality, elevated to coolness through an illusionistic take on hybridized shapes and volumes. If the idea sounds conceptually overcomplicated, the results IRL were surprisingly attractive and eminently wearable. After all, Swedes are often elegantly straightforward in their approach to style and lifestyle. However, creative u-turns are to be expected.
This was the case where fabrications and treatments traditionally appropriate for certain climates were instead reinterpreted for the contrary. Heavy-looking jumpers were made in soft silk; leather biker jackets were rendered in gentle chintzed cotton; airy fabrics were overprinted with abstract/grungy lumberjack checks. On the same note, tailoring incorporated technical aspects and utilitarian details. Reversed and deconstructed, the collection had “an illusory outdoor feel,” said Nying, who limited the amount of trims, not to mention the completely alien notion of decoration, to let the custom-made fabrications, interesting in their imaginative finishes, do all the talking.