Paria Farzaneh Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear

To parlay with Paria Farzaneh is to grapple with big issues—“nothing has really changed and this constant need for new is still not sustainable, in my opinion,” she says—while also nudging for smaller answers: “The collection? In part it’s about dressing up character.”

Front-of-stage role-play props here included the 10-gallon hats, big-buckle belts, and finely-worked boots which, along with the decoratively-piped Dundee-sourced denim, yeehaw’d U.S. cowboy codes. However Farzaneh, who said she feels increasingly detached from “pumped-up” contemporary culture and drawn to the past, seemed less concerned with costume design than creating a sort of semi-ironic wearable armor for real-world avatars. “It’s about being a real character,” she said. “It segregates a persona to be ready for any scenario. Whether you are going to Mayfair or a rave, why shouldn’t you be ready for both?”

Farzaneh’s interwoven play with identity is becoming increasingly layered. The foundation is her back-and-forth between the Iranian codes of her family roots, expressed here in ghalamkar pattern fleece, and the contemporary tropes of so-called-streetwear and her Northern British upbringing, via her use of British milled fabrics, some upcycled. Of partnering with the Yorkshire-based mill on the woolen tartan featured in denim-hipped skirts and menswear pants, she said: “It was so nice because they are Northern: It made me nostalgic for being at school and wanting to be older. And it made me think of being nostalgic but challenging it into other formations.”

Increasingly, she says, she is observing her defined sensibility resonate with a globally disparate audience: “We have had attention in Korea, Japan, Australia, and then also some very unexpected places in the U.S.: Missouri, Tennessee, Texas.” She recently sold some pieces to a Navy Seal based out of North Carolina. What sometimes connects the addresses in her order book is the Iranian diaspora: “There are millions of Iranians around the world who have sought refuge.” Yet there is a broader affinity at play here, too. As physical distance becomes increasingly abstracted by digital proximity, Farzaneh is soothsaying an irreverently pan-cultural mindset expressed through dress. This was reflected in her note: “There were no fit models for this collection, just inspiring individuals around us who were interested in the clothes, the story, the movement. And that’s all that matters in the end.”

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