It’s no secret that Lorenzo Serafini is a born romantic. On his spring moodboard he plastered ethereal images that photographer Paolo Roversi took in the ’90s of Romeo Gigli’s collections. Was it intended as an homage to an aesthetic that was a whimsical antidote to minimalism’s clean lines? “Romeo’s work was magical,” said Serafini. “It still makes a lot of sense today.”
His research also brought about an appreciation of ’70s designer Giorgio di Sant’Angelo, whose style, albeit playing on glamour, “had interesting parallels with Gigli’s,” explained Serafini. These layers of references found their way into the collection, filtered through Philosophy’s “lightness of being.”
“I also worked on a slender silhouette, more essential, enhancing the body without being overtly sexy or too romantic,” said Serafini. Cue the use of stretch fabrics throughout, wrapped into soft bustiers, knotted into bandeau tops, extended into elongated high-waisted leggings, or draped into panels crossing the bodice of one-shoulder long dresses.
As well as the silhouette, the chromatic palette was kept neat; an archival Toile de Jouy printed on luscious latex gave a frisson of mischievousness to a form-fitting strapless dress, or to off-white leggings paired with a tight crisscrossed top. Between concision and softness, Serafini’s collection was a graceful play on equilibrium.