Soulland Copenhagen Spring 2023

The spring show Silas Adler put on in Copenhagen today was almost a mirror image of the one he presented as an invited guest at Pitti Uomo two months ago. The playlist in Florence included Danish music from the 1970s, and vice versa in the Danish capital. Similarly, some looks that had been worn by women in Italy, were worn by men in Adler’s hometown.

Soulland started as a skate brand and grew into a menswear label. More recently Adler introduced womenswear and he’s working on ways of bringing the two closer together. This season he decided to apply the same design philosophy across the board rather than focusing on who the wearer is. So beige corduroy suits worn with pink sweaters were sized for men and women, and all genders wore lace. This material was worked in various ways. The sheer closing looks seemed like show pieces while it was easy to imagine the printed laces and the black and white pieced looks, particularly a hooded poncho, showing up in street style pictures next year.

This was a large collection with many themes; less variety might have delivered a sharper message. Those corduroy suits worn with pink collared sweaters read as cool, not preppy. Ditto the version embroidered with Sanrio’s Hello Kitty, who made her Soulland debut here. In addition to the embroidery, there was a tonal applique, accessories, and a hearts-and-Hello Kitty print on pink stretch fabric. “Collaborations,” said Adler, should “be fun and a little bit ironic.”

Fashion’s favorite feline wasn’t the only creature to walk the runway. Adler also introduced the “Spring Devil,” a being, he explained, who gives you “energy that pushes you to like go a little bit further” than you might ordinarily. Originally a 2D graphic, when rendered in three dimensions the imp became a pet/accessory that looked ready for something wild.

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